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When compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end names. But, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” states the owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest shop securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.